Normandy Travel

Forest footpaths

2009-03-27T06:34:00.000-07:00

The peaty part of the marsh, an environment which is extremely rare in France, is created by the accumulation of undecomposed vegetable matter. This forms a very poor soil, which is spongy and of poor bearing surface. The plants that do manage to thrive here are specific to this kind of environment. Because they are so rare, some of them have taken an emblematic status, such as the orchids or certain carnivorous plants such as the sundew. The Regional Nature Park is equipped with a humid zone observatory, where scientists work at drawing up an inventory of the flora and fauna of the Marsh. Only by knowing the full extent of the area natural riches will everybody be able to participate in preserving them.

A protected reserve

In the heart of the peat marsh is the Mannevilles Nature Reserve, owned by the Ministry of the Environment since 1973, and which is managed by the Park. Here you will find around 80 Highland cows and Camargue horses living in the wild. They were brought in some 30 years ago, after scientific work demonstrated how efficient rustic herbivores of this kind were in preserving the humid environment. These "natural bush cutters" were chosen for their ability to resist the cold winters, for their relatively light weight and their rusticity, and they play a key role in the balance of the natural environment.

Camembert

2008-12-06T10:43:00.000-08:00

Legend has it that an inhabitant of Camembert, one Marie Harel, invented the cheese which bears the village's name. She was reportedly given the "secret" of its manufacture by a priest. During the French Revolution (beginning in 1789), all Roman Catholic priests in France were required to swear allegiance to the newborn republic. Those prelates who refused were executed or forced into exile. Some chose to hide in the countryside while waiting for better days. In 1790, during the month of October, the Abbé Charles-Jean Bonvoust supposedly sought refuge with Marie at her farm, Beaumoncel. He came from the Brie, a region near Paris famous for its cheeses. In return for the shelter she offered him, he gave to Marie the "secret" of making Camembert cheese.

Although all of Normandy produces cheese, the Pays d'Auge and Pays de Bray are most well known thanks to the fame of certain cheeses: Camembert, Livarot, Pont-l'évêque and Neufchatel. Most famous of all is Camembert, a national symbol along with the baguette and the beret.

Eure

2007-11-24T05:19:00.000-08:00

Giverny has Monet’s house and beautiful garden. Busy during summer weekends the queues are worth the wait. Richard the Lionheart’s ruined Château Gaillard perches above Les Andelys with superb views across the Seine. Evreux’s cathedral is a gothic masterpiece with brilliant stained glass. Charming Pont Audemer is on the edge of the huge Brotonne Forest.

Étretat

2007-01-31T07:49:00.000-08:00

Just a few miles north of Le Havre, on the coast, you'll find Étretat. Here you can take a stroll and admire the weirdly shaped cliffs.

Étretat is best known for its cliffs, including a famous natural arch. These cliffs and the associated resort beach attracted artists including Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet and Claude Monet. Two of the three famous arches seen from the town are the Porte d'Aval, and the Porte d'Amont. The Manneporte is the third which can not be seen from the town.

Deauville-les-Bains

2007-01-06T04:15:00.000-08:00

Deauville is quite small. During my stay there, I took a walk on the beach every day. It was mid-September, but the tourists were already gone.

Every year, at the beginning of september, there's an American film festival in Deauville. Deauville is a very chic town by the sea. There are palaces and a casino here. During the festival ( which lasts about two weeks), you can come close to loads of stars, take pictures and have autographs.

When you walk along the beach of Deauville, you have to pay attention of the little beachhouses. Almost on every house you can find names of celebrities who have once spend their holidays in Deauville. Names like Marlon Brando or Pierce Brosnan are all present!

Le Havre - Malraux museum

2007-01-04T05:03:00.000-08:00

This is a nice little museum with a lovely collection (mostly paintings) ranging from the XVII to the XX century. The Boudin studies are great. I love cows. They also have a very nice Dufy collection. He was very fond of Le Havre and the paintings are just excellent. It's doable in an hour or two (my opinion) so you don't get stuck spending the day inside; it's more of a culture break than culture overload. The museum will soon be closed for renovation so please check carefully or call before you go. Normally this is scheduled for 1 January through to 1 June 2006. Also they have free parking and handicap accessibility.

Abbaye of Mont St-Michel

2007-01-03T02:03:00.000-08:00

The main attraction on Mont St-Michel is the Gothic Abbey, perched on the top of the island. Of the 3.5 million people that visit the island each year, only about 1 million of them actually pay a visit to the Abbey. I wonder if it has something to do with the very steep climb required to get up to the Abbey?! The Abbey was built from the 13th to 16th centuries. A visit to the Abbey in June 2006 cost us 8 euro. This price allows you access to wander through the Abbey at your leisure. You can also join a guided tour at no extra charge, or hire an audio guide for another few euro. We opted for the guided tour (in English). It was quite interesting, though our tour guide spent a lot more time talking about himself and his time living in England than explaining about the Abbey! The tour starts at the Abbey Church, which sits right on the summit of the island, and is constructed from a mix of architectural styles due to parts of the building collapsing over the years. It also covers the cloister, a pretty garden area for contemplation, the refectory and a Gothic guest hall, amongst other things. Although the setting is fabulous, the inside of the Abbey wasn't as impressive as I expected, though I still think it is well worth a visit.

Bayeux

2006-12-27T04:12:00.000-08:00

Bayeux is the home to the 1000 year-old Bayeux tapestry which tells the tale of the Norman conquest of England. This was fun as David and I had encountered a lot of William the Conqueror history in London (the Tower of London and Westminster Abbey, most notably).Seeing an embroidered representation of Edward the Confessor, whose tomb we had seen a couple weeks earlier, made me appreciate my 10th grade world history lessons all the more. It turns out Mr. Sheppard was correct when he stressed that 1066 was one of only two dates you needed to know for a proper understanding of European history (the other being November 11, 1918).We spent the night just outside of Bayeux in a classy château (not sure if there are unclassy ones). And in the morning we set off to see the Normandy Invasion sites.There are a number of places you can stop along the way. At Arromanches you can see the remnants of the concrete blocks used to create the so-called Mulberry Harbors that allowed the transport of men and equipment into France. At Longues-sur-mer you can see a number of German emplacements that were bombarded during the invasion.Most impressive to me was Pointe du Hoc, the site of a famous Army Ranger assault that took place before the beach landings. The entire site is pock-marked with craters. When you look at the cliffs the Rangers had to scale to assault the German artillery it's easy to understand why so many men died. There's a similar feeling standing on Omaha beach and looking up at the bluffs that would have hidden entrenched machine gun nests.Visiting Normandy was a great experience. As a California liberal pants-wetter I not only believe that all wars are regrettable but that war-making is something we should be able to transcend as a people. So being at the site of justly-celebrated use of American might made me feel a strange mix of emotions.On the one hand, I believe that the unquestioning reverence given to the Greatest Generation has mythologized their significance to the point where it is no longer accessible. That being said, I can honestly say that in standing there I felt proud of being American for the first time in as long as I can remember. You're looking at a largely intact piece of German artillery and you know that this was the German Army and not the Nazis who were (you try not to over-dramatize) killing your people and you can't help think to yourself "Yes, this is good. It's good that this was destroyed. The people who destroyed this were right and I'm proud of them for having done so."There's something both undeniably inspiring and simultaneously tragic in visiting the place that marks the last best military accomplishment of your nation.

Normandy trip

2006-12-27T04:10:00.000-08:00

On the second day of our journey to France, we took a train from Paris to Caen which is the closest major city to the beaches of Normandy where D-Day occurred on June 6, 1944. We rented a car which allowed us to explore at our own pace. We started out at Sword beach on the east side of the beach and worked our way toward Omaha beach on the west side. (Normandy is on the north side of France facing the English Channel). It was amazing seeing this place where so much bloodshed and destruction occurred. In contrast to the violence which occurred, the country side is quite beautiful with many quaint villages along the way.Looking out into the water, I tried to imagine the 5000 some odd ships which would have been facing the beaches. As we progressed along the coast, we stopped at a place called Aromanches where the British forces built a temporary harbor to assist in bringing supplies/forces from the ships to the land. This allegedly played a critical role in the invasion. At various places along the 40 kilometer route, we stopped at the actual sites where the battle was fought. We saw enormous guns used to fire on ships, bunkers (some intact some very damaged), pill boxes, and assorted damage to the land. We were able to actually walk inside some of the German bunkers. You could very clearly see the damage to the bunkers resulting from airplane and ship bombardment.Pont du Hoc on Omaha Beach was a major part of the battle where American troops climbed the cliffs and took on the German forces. I previously had no real concept of D-Day and what it might have been like. Seeing the cliffs and beaches in person helped me to realize the enormous odds stacked against any solider trying to attack from below on the beaches. These were truly heroes with tremendous bravery. All over the ground at Pont du Hoc were gigantic holes and depressions into the ground resulting from bombs.The most somber and sobering part of the day was when we spent some time at the American cemetery where there are 9600+ graves each with a soldiers name on it. Standing in the cemetery was almost overwhelming. The sheer emotion and realization of the massive sacrifice of life was definitely apparent. Next time you see a veteran, thank them for their service. War is a terrible thing and it was very much realized in that place.After departing from the beaches, we had a meal in a small town called Bayeux and made our way back to Caen for our trip home to Paris. We were sure to check the last departing train time during the day which was indicated as 9:30 pm. However, this was not the case. Apparently, the 9:30 train only leaves from Caen to Paris on Sunday night. So, we ended up spending the night in Caen arising at 4:45 am and getting on a 5:15 am train to Paris. Not the most fun way to spend one's last night in France but provided fodder for stories to tell later on.

Parks and gardens

2006-12-27T03:10:00.000-08:00

If there is a land designed for gardens, its got to be Normandy. The light from the skies and the mild climate are just two of the factors which contribute to the subtle and enchanting allure of the gardens.

The parks and gardens of Normandy, whether botanical, landscape or historic have become important points of reference. Connoisseurs as well as novices will be enthralled by the wealth of different species as well as the beauty of the individual sites.

Visitors can discover a wide range of surroundings and secret walks which change daily according to the weather, plant cycle and with a little help from man.

The Legend of the Télémaque

2006-12-13T11:57:00.000-08:00

But where has the cargo carried by the Télémaque disappeared to? The locals of Quillebeuf still ask themselves this question…. On 3rd January 1790, the Télémaque, a 120-ton brig, sank off Quillebeuf, taking with her, so the story goes, the fortune of Louis XVI and the treasures of the abbeys that lie along the Seine. The wreck was never found, despite any number of valiant attempts, the most recent of which took place in 1939. What is certain is that the ship really did exist. She was built at Le Val de la Haye near Rouen in 1772, at the shipyard owned by the Thibaut brothers. The Télémaque arrived late at Quillebeuf and misjudged her manoeuvre. The ship ran aground, full sail ahead. She swung over to starboard and part of her load fell into the sea. The legend of the Télémaque was born…

The life of the river

2006-12-12T13:35:00.000-08:00

A region nourished by the Seine

From Rouen down to Le Havre, the Seine travels some 132 km, carving out a sinuous valley, where the contrast between the steep slopes and the more gentle ones is often very marked. The Seine Valley is also surprisingly vast. Since 1846, the river has frequently been modified and worked on in order to make it navigable for shipping. A series of dykes, for example, has brought the infamous tidal bore, responsible for many a wrecked ship in the past, under control. Nestling in the Seine very last loop, the region is a veritable "bubble" of nature, in sharp contrast to the industrial zone of Port-Jérôme. The Seine, the "link" between the two banks, forms both a natural and a political frontier. It is the northeast border of the Eure department. On either side of the river, the small towns and ancient ports are almost too numerous to name: Aizier, Vieux-Port, Tocqueville, Bourneville, Trouville-la-Haule…

The story of Quillebeuf

Quillebeuf owes its reputation as a maritime town to its strategic geographical location. The whole town is stamped with the history of its famous sailors. The town name is thought to be of Norse origin. In Scandinavia, Kylboe means the village of the bay, and it is here that the great Marais Vernier bay opens out. The local inhabitants claim that their only master is the King, who returned the favour by granting them the monopoly of piloting on the Seine. Henri IV even allowed them to change the name of the town, which for a few years became Henriqueville or Henriquarville.

There is nothing like a walk around Quillebeuf-sur-Seine to appreciate the full beauty of its architecture. Beyond the lighthouse, which was built in 1862, there is Notre-Dame-de- Bon-Port, one of the finest specimens of Roman Norman ecclesiastical architecture. Note the numerous inscriptions depicting boats around the walls and the collection of models boats in the nave.

Out of the church, and on to the Gard Well. Anybody who wanted to be a pilot on the Seine had to have been born in Quillebeuf and to have been baptised using the water from this well. On up the Grand Rue, with its 16th century halftimbered houses. On the head plates of some of them, there are inscriptions dating back to the time when they were inhabited by Protestants. Others bear patterns that remind visitors of the town river-based history. The visit ends on the ferry slip.

Saint-Samson de la Roque

A promontory situated between the River Risle and the Marais Vernier, perched on the top of a 50-metre high cliff. The modern church dates back to the 19th century. The Roque Headland used to be the seat of a coast guard authority, set up to protect the mouth of the Seine. The lighthouse here was built in 1839. Just a few yards away, a picnic area has been set up. Illustrated panels give information on local wildlife, and a viewing table helps visitors discover the whole bay of the Seine. Walkers will want to follow the "chemin de la Roque", marked out in yellow. picnic area has been set up.

The Quillebeuf-sur- Seine ferry

By linking the two banks of the river, the ferry ends the notions of "frontier" and "obstacle" embodied by the wide River Seine. The ferry that is currently in service began operating in 1970.

Tancarville Bridge

Majestic, grandiose, architectural success story, there is no end to the superlatives. This was the first bridge to link the two banks downstream from Rouen, built in 1959. It is some 1,400 metres long, and because it is now linked to the Normandy motorway, it has brought Le Havre to within just 2 hours from Paris. The GR23 long-distance footpath crosses it.

Coastal Normandy biking

2006-12-08T06:36:00.000-08:00

In Normandy, an "artist's paradise," wonderful coastline,woodlands and countryside combine to make a fabulousbicycle vacation. Of course, Normandy is also wellknown for the WWII landing beaches used by the Alliedarmies. There is much to see and remember here of thattime. This region of France is also renowned for its dairyproducts, and the gastronomical delights won'tdisappoint. In addition to its cider and Calvados,Normandy produces the famous Camembert cheese.You're certain to enjoy this countryside as you bicyclethrough the green pastures and seaside towns,discovering the history that has made this area sofamous.

This tour is primarily focused on thesites of the WWII landings and memorial inCaen.

Day 1: Arrive to start cycling tour in Bayeux.Your hotel, a 17th-century former coachhouse, is in the heart of the city, allowing youa chance to explore before having dinner.Bayeux was the first town to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy, so there ismuch history here. Perhaps best known is the Bayeux Tapestry, depicting William ofNormandy's 1066 conquest of England. Orientation and bike fitting 6pm at hotel.

Day 2: Leaving Bayeux, you will cycle through the rich countryside of Bessin, enroute to Omaha Beach. The striking white crosses of the American Military Cemeteryat Colleville-sur-Mer evoke strong memories of D-Day. You have an option to visit LaPointe du Hoc, where you will encounter some of the most spectacular scenery alongthe coast. It is here that one of the most intense battles of World War II was fought.Return to Bayeux.

Day 3: Your bicycle tour continues to Arromanches, Gold Beach, and Juno Beach.Here you can see the vestiges of Mulberry, the artificial floating harbor conceived byWinston Churchill as a means to deliver supplies to the landing troops. The LandingMuseum traces the stages of the Allied landings. Proceed along the coast and itsmagnificent beaches to Courseulles-sur-Mer, and perhaps visit the Maison de la Mer(shellfish aquarium and seashell museum). You'll head inland to reach Caen, and yourcentrally located hotel for this evening.

Day 4: Caen, the capital of Lower Normandy,is a sizable city and there is much to see anddo here. Maybe an early start to visit themarkets selling the delicacies of the region:cider, calvados, cheeses, butter and “teurgole”,a rice pudding with cinnamon. The Chateau,built by William the Conqueror, offers apanoramic view of the city. Your visit is notcomplete without a visit to the Peace Memorial Museum, dedicated to the history of theWorld War II conflict. If time allows, you may wish to visit the Abbaye aux Hommesand Abbaye aux Femmes, built by William the Conqueror and his wife QueenMathilde respectively. The bike ride today is optional, but gives you a chance to seePegasus Bridge, so named for the British 6th Airborne Division’s emblem, to reach thecoast. Return to same hotel in Caen.

Day 5: Departure after breakfast, at your leisure.

The Marais Vernier

2006-12-01T06:29:00.000-08:00

Set in the Boucles de la Seine Normande Regional Nature Park, in the Eure department, to the west of the Brotonne Forest and at the foot of the Tancarville Bridge, the Marais Vernier forms a natural amphitheatre, between the Seine and the nearby low-lying wooded hills, of some 4,500 ha.

This vast area is composed of two very different sections: the "peaty" marsh, which is very wet, and made up of prairies, pasturages and woods, devoted to livestock breeding and hunting, and the alluvial marsh, which is not so wet and where there is more crop-growing, alongside the livestock breeding.

Since the Middle Ages, the inhabitants of the Marshland have had to learn to adapt to this damp natural environment. At the foot of the slopes, they used to cultivate long thin strips of land, bordered on either side by ditches, still known in the area as "courtils". Later on, in order to cope with the whims of the Seine when it flooded, a number of dykes were built around the Marsh in an attempt to drain them. The most famous of these, the "Dutch dyke", was erected subsequent to an edict pronounced by King Henri IV. In the 16th century, more embankments were undertaken.

The region of Quillebeuf-sur-Seine

2006-09-07T11:01:00.000-07:00

Nestling in the last-but-one meander of the Seine, 14 small towns and villages have come together to invite visitors to stimulate their senses. They are easy to spot, because their names are so evocative of the region and of their local identity, between Seine and the Marsh. Any person who one day takes a stroll along the footpaths of the Marais Vernier, in the heart of the Boucles de la Seine Normande Regional Nature Park, will keep these memories with him for many years…the multitude of fragrances, colours, protected bird species. Discover an area given over to the preservation of nature and to increasing awareness among the public of its wealth and beauty, where the inhabitants welcome you with open arms to share their “savoir-faire” and their “savoir-vivre”. The identity of this region owes a great deal to the river. The towns and villages here have enjoyed a particularly prosperous history thanks to the Seine. The region is also reknowned for its architecture, its innumerable beautiful thatched cottages, its churches and abbeys. While enjoying a break between two sightseeing trips, the local speciality, the Rever apple, will delight even the most demanding palates. And of course, it must not be forgotten that the region has inspired a whole host of artists, painters and writers down the years. The village of Quillebeuf was an important port on the Seine whose abbey of Jumièges derived revenues from it. The village is mentioned in texts from before 942 and the church, rebuilt in the 12th century by the monks of Jumièges, probably succeeded a pre-Romanesque edifice. The church has a nave with five bays and side aisles, opening onto a choir with ambulatory, dominated by a square tower with two floors and stair turret. The only notable modifications to the 12th century church are the choir (16th century) and the side aisles (1786). The most characteristic Romanesque period parts remain the façade and central tower.
The very wide façade is strengthened by two buttresses. The gable bonding above the west door is marked by motifs in lozenge or star form. The door is of a particular type where the vaulting does not descend to the small columns but right down to the ground with side walls and an uninterrupted decoration in geometrical motifs.The lantern tower has a lower level decorated by fully vaulted arches resting on twin columns, a motif repeated on the upper level with larger arches opening onto geminate openings.

The Holy Trinity at Savigny

2006-09-06T05:49:00.000-07:00

In 1129 Richard de Granville granted his fee, situated on the west bank of the river Neath, to the Norman abbey of Holy Trinity at Savigny for the foundation of a new monastery. A year later Abbot Richard (d. 1145) and his twelve monks arrived from Savigny and a new community at Neath was formed: it was the second daughter-house of Savigny in England and Wales. The monks soon found that their lands were far too scattered to be managed properly and during the 1190s a plan was put forward for the monastery to move to the site of its property at Exford in Somerset. The plan was thwarted when, in 1198, the abbey of Cleeve was established barely ten miles from the site at Exford. Thus, instead of moving, the community decided to put its efforts into consolidating its lands closer to home. This eventually paid off and by the end of the thirteenth century Neath Abbey was one of the wealthiest houses in Wales.The numbers increased and after the house was burnt down in 1224 by Morgan ap Owen it appears to have been entirely rebuilt for twenty-four monks and forty to fifty lay-brothers. Between 1280 and 1320 the twelfth-century Romanesque church was replaced by a new Gothic construction. The scheme attracted the attention of King Edward I and, on a visit to Neath in 1284, he presented the abbey with a beautiful canopy, intended for the High Altar.

The surrounding area was once all forest. St. Vital retreated as a hermit into these woods. Then, in 1112, he founded an abbey. Savigny, a great and prestigious abbey, was the mother of the Benedictine reform in Normandy. Before adopting the Cistercian Observance in 1147, it had spread throughout the duchy-kingdom, with more than 30 houses in both England and Normandy. Savigny… But then the Revolution struck, in such a destructive manner! It is said that Henry II Plantagenet once stayed here and that St. Louis once passed through these doors.

However, these pillars are now held up by the echo of prayers... The memory of the site belongs to the monks whose names have not been passed down over the centuries; only their vow of humility and religious fervour is known to us. Here, they served God. Here, they came to bring forth the fruits of the Earth. To better understand and discover how they lived, continue your visit in Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouët. The Centre for Sacred Art opens the doors of the abbey in the form of a scale model.

The priory of Saint-Gabriel

2006-09-06T05:48:00.000-07:00

The priory was founded in 1058 to serve the ambitions of the Count of Creully and to stretch the prestige of Fécamp Abbey all the way to Bayeux’s doorstep… When night falls, the echo of croaking toads mixes with the reflections of the moon. During the day, students flock about! Secondary school students from the Horticultural Centre develop their green thumbs by working the land once tended by monks.

The Benedictines left at the end of the Middle Ages to join their brothers on the other side of the Seine. However, the Archangel St. Gabriel has lost none of his soul, nor any of his timeless charm. Push open the great door : it welcomes you with all the elegance of the 13th century. You will enter into a courtyard where fruit trees grow, and at the far end you will see the Prior’s Tower. Charmed by so much bucolic nobility, a shiver courses through you.

Built in the 15th century at the south-west end of the enclosure, the superb keep is particularly impressive. Now look east, in the direction of the Holy Land. Past the church, a Romanesque jewel of which only the chancel remains since 1749, and past the vaults of greenery, you will perceive three “chapels”... These modern greenhouses are nurseries for the gardeners and horticulturalists of tomorrow.

Normandy’s magnificent abbeys tour

2006-09-06T05:23:00.000-07:00

Normandy's abbeys are a major part of the region's architectural and cultural heritage. Steeped in history and legend, these abbeys are now protected sites. Some have retained their original function and are still home to monastic communities. However, most of the abbeys, whether privately or publicly owned, have been converted to new, generally cultural uses, thus enabling their upkeep and preservation.
The “Route Historique des Abbayes Normandes ” is the means to discover the region’s rich religious heritage. Whether still consecrated or with a new lease of life as an exhibition centre or concert venue these 36 unique sites are as varied as they are spectacular. From magnificent ruins such as Jumieges or lovingly restored for a new use like the Abbaye aux Dames in Caen, a living museum such as Montivilliers or a national treasure like Mont St Michel, each has its own particular architectural style and historical significance. Each summer, many sites provide spectacular venues for evening concerts and recitals.
More than 30 abbeys, every one of them appealing and beautiful, all a little alike and yet each one unique.An array of châteaux, museums and churches located in their vicinity.

The Regional Nature Park of Cotentin and Bessin

2006-08-23T03:11:00.000-07:00

The Park covers an area of 145,000 acres of which 25,000 are wetland zones made up of the Cotentin and Bessin marshes. In this area, which is strongly invested by agricultural activity, the landscapes still have a human dimension, are exceptionally untouched and biologically diverse.
At the heart of the area, near Carentan, the Regional Nature Park provides the Ponts d'Ouve discovery area.

Although the lapwings, marsh snipe, green-winged teal and other ducks are regular visitors, the sudden attack of a peregrine falcon or the grazing flight of a marsh harrier can provide for excitement and emotion!

Spring and summer are the time for observing the migrants on their way back and the nesting birds as they settle in. Thus, reeves, wood and green sandpipers will, for a few days, keep the white storks, yellow wagtails and sedge warblers company while some of them are already nesting and others defending their territory with a great deal of birdsong.
Others are more discreet and may surprise you by suddenly appearing in a reed bed or a willow thicket, like the garganey, the bluebreast darter or the bittern, the latter also spending the winter months in the area.

touristic routes

2006-08-15T02:47:00.004-07:00

Manor houses, Gardens and Antiques in the Perche park

We can't possibly list all the shops, producers and landmarks worth visiting along the way, so don't forget you can adapt these routes, take sidetracks and discover your own special places. This route totals 100 miles and takes about 8 hours including time for lunch and visits.
The Perche region is a beautiful area to explore, filled with wonderful manor houses, deep forests and green valleys. This day's outing by car will help you discover a small part of this beautiful region and on the way you can look in on several antique dealers - browsing is a national pastime, so don't think you have to buy anything!

Leave Ancinnes in the direction of Neufchatel and then turn right on the D311 to Mamers.
Mamers is the capital of "rillettes", the famous speciality of the Sarthe department, a sort of fresh potted pork (much more delicious on toast or bread than it sounds!). Turn left down a side street at the town centre traffic lights into rue Charles Grainger and there is a brocante (second-hand shop) called Pierre Colette which has a mixture of quality furniture, stuff in need of restoration and bric-a-brac; go through the shop and have a root around in the rear warehouse - if you're lucky, you'll find one of those enamelware salt tins or match tins that cost 40-50 pounds in UK antique shops (even when rusted through) for a few euros here. Closed Tuesdays.
Take the D931 in the direction of Mortagne. After 5 or 6 km turn right in the direction of la Perriere. This beautiful village is well worth visiting, full of beautiful, characterful houses listed as historical monuments. In the main square, you can pay a brief visit to the lace-netting museum. The famous Alençon lace was invented by Madame de la Perrière and you can see demonstrations of the art in the workshops here. You can pause for a snack or a drink at the Relais d'Horbe, an antique shop-cum-bar, on the main square. The owner, Martin Barray, speaks English. Whatever you do, don't forget to go up to the church at the entrance to the village and admire the amazing panorama from the rocky outcrop behind it, then walk round the cemetery for more great views before wandering round the village, where practically all the houses deserve a look. There is a small sculptor's workshop on the road out.

Leave La Perrière through the forest on the road marked 'Circuit Panorama' and follow signs at junctions to le Gue de la Chaine and Bellême. At Bellême you will find 3 more antique shops, but most importantly stop at the chocolaterie 'Bataille' - it is heaven for chocaholics. Leave Bellême taking the D955 towards Nogent le Rotrou until after a few kilometres you see the sign for Préaux du Perche to the right. In Préaux du Perche turn right just before the church and follow the signs for "Jardin Francois ". This is a lovely garden in a beautiful setting, designed by Gérard Francois, and has a restaurant.

Go back the way you came, cross under the Bellême-Nogent road and go to Nocé. Just before Nocé on the side road to Dancé there is a brocante based in the splendid Lormarin Manor, just outside Nocé. In Nocé there are also a couple of restaurants.

Continue through Nocé on the D9 in the direction of Colonard and you will soon find the Manoir de Courboyer on your right - one of the few Perche Manor Houses open to the public, which also houses the "Maison du parc du Perche". There is also a cafeteria-restaurant and a good (if expensive) gift shop here.

Leaving the Manor continue on the D9 to Colonard and turn right to Rémalard on the D920. Here you will find "la Maison Fassier", the "most charming antique shop in all of western France", according to Marie Claire magazine. It is hidden away so go into the village centre and turn right down rue de l'Eglise; it is just opposite the church and next to the gendarmerie. Their speciality is "meuble de metier" and French country style furniture - make sure you go upstairs. NB Very restricted opening hours: Friday and Saturday all day except lunch, Sunday 11.00-13.00.

Leaving Rémalard take the D19 to Boissy Maugis. Go straight through then take a road on your right down an avenue of tall trees between the huge trees in direction of Maison Maugis. Through the trees to your right is a superb fortified farm typical of this region; then shortly you will see one of the most lovely manors of the Perche, "Manoir de la Moussetière" at Maison Maugis. Bear right, then at the crossroads turn left in the direction of Monceaux au Perche on the D111. Just outside Monceaux you can visit a very charming garden, the garden of the Manor of Pontgirard.

Continue to Longny au Perche where you can visit another antique shop in the little street which runs off the main square, with the church on your right. The shop is housed in a lovely watermill (near the fire station). Down a side street on the other side of the square, next to the town hall, is a street of pretty medieval houses.

If your appetite for antiques is not yet sated, from Longny take the pretty road in the direction of Mortagne, capital of the 'boudin noir' (black pudding), where you will find three more antique shops in the streets around the centre of this charming market town. The town itself is has much to recommend it and a walking tour is marked out to show you the remarkable architecture such as the old fort and Hotel Tribunal - pick up an explanatory leaflet from the tourist office.

To come back from Mortagne to Alençon either take the N12 towards Alençon or, for a more relaxed and picturesque route which is barely longer, take the D9331 to Mamers and return along the D311 to Neufchatel (signposted Alençon) and Ancinnes.

Incidentally, Neufchatel is the home our own two favourite restaurants. "Ma Maison " is open evenings only, Wednesday to Sunday - please book in advance to avoid disappointment. The restaurant is run by Nicole and her son Laurent. Food is superb, while the delightfully eccentric décor inside and out has to be seen to be believed. Near Neufchatel (follow signposts from the church) is the restaurant 'Les Etangs de Guibert', in a wonderful setting with a dining room and terrace overlooking the lake, owned by the always welcoming Gilbert Gaultier and his wife. Excellent food in a setting to match.

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Welcome to Normandy

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From ultra-modern Le Tréport to the Mont-Saint-Michel, the Normandy coast exhibits an astonishing variety of landscapes.

Normandy is a geographical region in northern France. Upper Normandy (Haute-Normandie) consists of the French départements of Seine-Maritime and Eure, and Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie) of the départements of Orne, Calvados, and Manche.

The Duchy of Normandy is a formerly independent duchy situated in northern France occupying the lower Seine area, the Pays de Caux and the region to the west through the Pays d'Auge as far as the Cotentin Peninsula. Normandy was historically a province of France. It comprised present-day Upper and Lower Normandy, as well as small areas now part of the départements of Eure-et-Loir, Mayenne, and Sarthe.

During World War II, the town of Dieppe was the site of the ill-fated Dieppe Raid by Canadian and British units in 1942. Later, Normandy was also the site of the Normandy Invasion or Operation Overlord that began on June 6, 1944, which today is also known as D-Day. This was the successful invasion of German-occupied France by Allied troops. Caen, Cherbourg, Carentan, and other Norman towns endured many casualties in the fight for the province, which continued until the liberation of Le Havre on September 12.